Injuries to the fingers and wrist are common in climbing due to the repetitive gripping motions involved in this activity.
Once a niche sport, climbing has been steadily gaining popularity worldwide. Climbing can take place indoors or outdoors. In bouldering, climbers go up and across rock formations or walls close to the ground. Climbing is governed locally by Sport Climbing BC. Climbing was first held at the 2020 Summer Olympics and includes the disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. While there is risk for physical injury in climbing, there is some evidence that these injuries can be prevented.
(see Section 04 - Prevention)
Injuries to the fingers and wrist are common in climbing due to the repetitive gripping motions involved in this activity.
Repetitive overuse injuries in climbing occur in the shoulders, resulting in sprains and strains.
Repetitive overuse injuries in climbing occur in the elbow, resulting in sprains and strains.
Knee injuries are associated with falls.
Ankle injuries are associated with falls.
Climbers often report foot pain. Although climbing shoes should fit snugly, foot pain has been linked to climbers wearing shoes that are too tight.
Climbing injuries may be classified as acute or overuse injuries. Acute injuries mechanisms are being hit by falling rock or falling oneself resulting in head injuries or ankle injuries. Most fatal injuries are due to falls from great heights or during snow or ice climbing. Overall, overuse injuries are more common than acute injuries with the most common areas affected being the shoulders, wrists, feet, hands, and fingers.
It is estimated that...
Outdoor bouldering has a higher risk of finger injury as compared to indoor, while indoor bouldering has a higher risk of fall-related injury as compared to outdoor.
Overall males are at greater risk of injury than females. However, females may be at higher risk of ankle and foot ligament injuries, while males may be at a higher risk of ligament sprains of fingers, lacerations, fractures.
Climbers with more years of experience (>10 years) may be at a higher risk for climbing injuries overall. Less experienced climbers may be at greater risk of overuse injuries.
Higher intensity climbing may increase risk of overuse injuries.
The average probability of sustaining an injury with a reported history of injury when climbing is 1 in 3.
Older age may increase the risk for hand and finger injuries, while overall younger climbers may be at greater risk of all injuries and re-injury.
BMI is a measure of body composition based on your weight and height. There is conflicting evidence if higher BMI may be a risk factor for injury and re-injury for climbers.
Using these techniques are associated with increased fingertip injuries.
Training and regular practice are expected of athletes, but how much is too much? Your risk of injury can increase if you train too much or improperly. Learn more about how to find your training load “sweet spot.”
Wrist or finger taping and strength training can reduce your risk of injury.
Severe or fatal injuries are less likely if wearing a helmet.
Climbers should take sufficient rest periods between intense bouts of climbing to allow for recovery and mitigate fatigue.
Some muscle soreness or joint pain is expected when increasing your level of physical activity. It is important to listen to your body for persistent or worsening pain, and to know when to rest. Learn more about how to prevent injuries in rock climbing.
Talk to your climbing club or organization, if applicable, about the prevention strategies below and how they might be incorporated into training and policies.
Overuse injuries, including to the shoulder, elbow, wrist, and fingers can be a problem for rock climbers. Incorporating upper extremity and core strength training can help reduce your risk of injury.
Fingerboards
Fingerboards are equipped with various grips and are designed to be grasped with the feet not touching the ground for brief periods at high-intensity. A 4-week fingerboard training regimen can increase your grip strength and endurance, particularly among highly advanced competitive boulderers.
Oslo Sport Trauma Research Centre Neuromuscular Training
The Oslo Sport Trauma Research Centre has developed exercises that specifically help reduce the risk of injury to the shoulder and back. This resource includes videos and PDFs for download.
Learn more about exercises to help prevent shoulder injuries.
Learn more about exercises to help prevent back injuries.
For more exercises, visit http://fittoplay.org/.
While a concussion is not the most common injury in rock climbing, it is important to be aware of concussion signs and symptoms and know what to do if concussion is suspected. The Concussion Awareness Training Tool (CATT) is an online resource for participants and parents to learn more about how to recognize, prevent, and manage a concussion. CATT also includes resources on how to respond to a potential concussion situation, as well as detailed Return to School and Return to Sport protocol.
For bouldering, there is some evidence that ankle sprains can be reduced by covering potential landing areas with energy-absorbing materials.
Helmets provide protection from falling rocks and the impact from a fall.
Education
Learn about proper climbing techniques, use of climbing gear, how to belay other climbers, safety tips, and how to fall properly. Climb in the presence of a spotter to reduce risk of serious injury.
AdventureSmart is a national program providing information to keep you safe while participating in outdoor recreational activities.
Learn more about outdoor climbing safety.
Equipment
It is important to have the appropriate type of climbing shoes for your level of activity. Climbers report foot pain when climbing, often wearing shoes that are too tight.
Ensure that you have climbing gear that is in good working condition.
Sleep, Vigilance and Sport Injury Prevention
Being successful in physical activity requires a high degree of alertness, also known as vigilance. Sufficient sleep helps your body to recover, allows you to achieve your goals, and reduces your risk of injury. Getting less than 8 hours of sleep can increase your rate of injury by up to 70%! Watch this video to learn more about how sleep and vigilance are connected.
Sport-related Physicals
Climbing is a physically demanding sport and some pre-existing conditions may increase the risk of injury. An annual sport-related physical evaluation ensuring fitness to participate can help to reduce risk of injury. KidsHealth provides information about what sports physicals are, why they may be appropriate and where you may go to get them.
Learn more about Kids Health Sports Physicals.
Talk to your organization, climbing club, or school about the prevention strategies below and how they might be incorporated into training and policies.
Chronic injuries, including to the shoulder and wrist, can be a problem for rock climbers. Incorporating shoulder and wrist injuries into your strength training program can help reduce the risk of injury.
Fingerboards
Fingerboards are equipped with various grips and are designed to be grasped with the feet not touching the ground for brief periods at high-intensity. A 4-week fingerboard training regimen can increase your climbers’ grip strength and endurance, particularly among highly advanced competitive boulderers.
Oslo Sport Trauma Research Centre Neuromuscular Training
The Oslo Sport Trauma Research Centre has developed exercises that specifically help reduce the risk of injury to the shoulder and back. This resource includes videos and PDFs for download.
Learn more about exercises to help prevent shoulder injuries.
Learn more about exercises to help prevent back injuries.
For more exercises, visit http://fittoplay.org/.
While a concussion is not the most common injury in rock climbing, it is important to be aware of concussion signs and symptoms and know what to do if concussion is suspected. The Concussion Awareness Training Tool (CATT) is an online resource for coaches and teachers to learn more about how to recognize, prevent, and manage a concussion. CATT also includes resources on how to respond to a potential concussion situation, as well as detailed Return to School and Return to Sport protocol.
For bouldering, there is some evidence that ankle sprains can be reduced by covering potential landing areas with energy-absorbing materials.
Helmets provide protection from falling rocks and the impact from a fall.
Education
Teach proper climbing techniques, use of climbing gear, how to belay other climbers, safety tips, and how to fall properly. Ensure spotters are supervising climbers.
AdventureSmart is a national program providing information to keep you safe while participating in outdoor recreational activities.
Learn more about outdoor climbing safety.
Equipment
It is important to have the appropriate type of climbing shoes for your level of activity. Climbers report foot pain when climbing, often wearing shoes that are too tight.
Ensure that you have climbing gear that is in good working condition.
Facilities
The Ontario Physical Education Association (OPHEA) provides recommendations for safely installing temporary or portable climbing walls in secondary schools and commercial sites.
Learn more about implementing a portable climbing installation in secondary schools.
Sport-related Physicals
Climbing is a physically demanding sport and some pre-existing conditions may increase the risk of injury. An annual sport-related physical evaluation ensuring fitness to participate can help to reduce risk of injury. KidsHealth provides information about what sports physicals are, why they may be appropriate and where you may go to get them.
Learn more about Kids Health Sports Physicals.
Talk to your organization, climbing club, or school about the prevention strategies below and how they might be incorporated into training and policies.
Chronic injuries, including to the shoulder and wrist, can be a problem for rock climbers. Incorporating shoulder and wrist injuries into your strength training program can help reduce the risk of injury.
Fingerboards
Fingerboards are equipped with various grips and are designed to be grasped with the feet not touching the ground for brief periods at high-intensity. A 4-week fingerboard training regimen can increase your climbers’ grip strength and endurance, particularly among highly advanced competitive boulderers.
Oslo Sport Trauma Research Centre Neuromuscular Training
The Oslo Sport Trauma Research Centre has developed exercises that specifically help reduce the risk of injury to the shoulder and back. This resource includes videos and PDFs for download.
Learn more about exercises to help prevent shoulder injuries.
Learn more about exercises to help prevent back injuries.
For more exercises, visit http://fittoplay.org/.
While a concussion is not the most common injury in rock climbing, it is important to be aware of concussion signs and symptoms and know what to do if concussion is suspected. The Concussion Awareness Training Tool (CATT) is an online resource to learn more about how to recognize, prevent, and manage a concussion. CATT also includes resources on how to respond to a potential concussion situation, as well as detailed Return to School and Return to Sport protocol.
For bouldering, there is some evidence that ankle sprains can be reduced by covering potential landing areas with energy-absorbing materials.
Helmets provide protection from falling rocks and the impact from a fall.
Education
Teach proper climbing techniques, use of climbing gear, how to belay other climbers, safety tips, and how to fall properly. Ensure spotters are supervising climbers.
AdventureSmart is a national program providing information to keep you safe while participating in outdoor recreational activities.
Learn more about outdoor climbing safety.
Equipment
It is important to have the appropriate type of climbing shoes for your level of activity. Climbers report foot pain when climbing, often wearing shoes that are too tight.
Ensure that you have climbing gear that is in good working condition.
Sport-related Physicals
Climbing is a physically demanding sport and some pre-existing conditions may increase the risk of injury. An annual sport-related physical evaluation ensuring fitness to participate can help to reduce risk of injury. KidsHealth provides information about what sports physicals are, why they may be appropriate and where you may go to get them.
Learn more about Kids Health Sports Physicals.
The role of health professionals in preventing injuries while climbing or bouldering has two main components:
Chronic injuries, including to the shoulder and wrist, can be a problem for rock climbers. Incorporating shoulder and wrist injuries into your strength training program can help reduce the risk of injury.
Fingerboards
Fingerboards are equipped with various grips and are designed to be grasped with the feet not touching the ground for brief periods at high-intensity. A 4-week fingerboard training regimen can increase climbers’ grip strength and endurance, particularly among highly advanced competitive boulderers.
Oslo Sport Trauma Research Centre Neuromuscular Training
The Oslo Sport Trauma Research Centre has developed exercises that specifically help reduce the risk of injury to the shoulder and back. This resource includes videos and PDFs for download.
Learn more about exercises to help prevent shoulder injuries.
Learn more about exercises to help prevent back injuries.
For more exercises, visit http://fittoplay.org/.
While a concussion is not the most common injury in rock climbing, it is important to be aware of concussion signs and symptoms and know what to do if concussion is suspected. The Concussion Awareness Training Tool (CATT) is an online resource to learn more about how to recognize, prevent, and manage a concussion. CATT also includes resources on how to respond to a potential concussion situation, as well as detailed Return to School and Return to Sport protocol.
For bouldering, there is some evidence that ankle sprains can be reduced by covering potential landing areas with energy-absorbing materials.
Helmets provide protection from falling rocks and the impact from a fall.
Education
Encourage climbers to learn proper climbing techniques, use of climbing gear, how to belay other climbers, safety tips, and how to fall properly. Spotters should be supervising climbers.
AdventureSmart is a national program providing information to keep you safe while participating in outdoor recreational activities.
Learn more about outdoor climbing safety.
Equipment
It is important to have the appropriate type of climbing shoes for your level of activity. Climbers report foot pain when climbing, often wearing shoes that are too tight.
Ensure that you have climbing gear that is in good working condition.
Sport-related Physicals
Climbing is a physically demanding sport and some pre-existing conditions may increase the risk of injury. An annual sport-related physical evaluation ensuring fitness to participate can help to reduce risk of injury. The American Academy of Pediatrics provides information about preparticipation physical evaluation.
